Travel
Xinjiang- “A New Frontier”
Xinjiang is by any measure, a land of superlatives.
It can at the same time claim to be the driest, hottest, coldest and largest province of China. But it is the unparalleled scenery, and cultural diversity which has drawn explorers and travellers alike for millennia to this spectacular region.
Today, Xinjiang is fast becoming a new hotspot on the adventurer and tourist “places to visit”, offering fantastic opportunities for those with and interest in nature or hoping to catch a glimpse of ancient but rapidly changing cultures and customs of the Silk Road.
Environment
Situated in the far North West of China, Xinjiang is a massive province making up 16% of China’s total land area. Its two major deserts, the Taklamakan (In Mongolian meaning the desert you go into and don’t come out), and Junggar are separated by the Mighty Tian Shan range which stretches East-West unbroken for nearly 2500KM, bringing life sustaining water to the oasis towns and villages along its flanks. Being a place of such climatic extremes, it is this for visitor and resident alike which to a large extent dictates when and what to do. Generally speaking Xinjiang endures hot, dry summers, and cold dry winters, atypical of its continental location. In the Northern Altai region temperatures tend to be cooler and less arid than the south, and this is characterized by its rich temperate flora and fauna. Extremes range from 50C in the summer to -50 in the winter. Xinjiang has many inland rivers and only one, the Irtysh, flows to the sea.
The worlds second highest mountain, K2 (8511m), is situated on Xinjiangs southern border with Pakistan, and it’s lowest point, the Turpan depression
(-154m) is also the second lowest place on earth.
Culture
Official Xinjiang is home to 13 indigenous ethnic minorities, and aside from Han who now make up approximately 50% of the population, the largest minorities are Uyghur, Kazak, and Hui. It would be fair to say that each still maintain at least some of their traditional customs, and a strong identity with their respective ethnic group, though they share the Muslim faith. Generally speaking the ethnic makeup of Xinjiang is distributed along a North/South divide. With many local exceptions Uyghur predominate in the South, Han the North, and Kazak the far north.
For the traveller
Urumqi, aside from being the regions capital is also its main transport hub, and nearly all travellers will at least pass through this superficially typical Chinese city. Urumqi’s new airport, completed only last year offers flights to many provincial capitals, strangely absent being Hong Kong. There are also regular connecting flights to the other ‘stans, and even Dubai, and Islamabad. Aside from this there are regular flights to most of Xinjiang’s smaller cities spread across the region.
Urumqi is also on the main train line linking it to the rest of the country, and a new line stretches all the way to Kashgar, in the far South-West. Urumqi, for some reason, is blessed with an abundance of 4 and 5 star hotels. Having said that, rooms are at a premium in the summer months, and advance booking is always required at this time of year. At the backpacker end of the market options are very limited with one pseudo IHA hostel opening up this past summer.
Travelers cheques and American dollars a readily exchangeable at most 4/5 Star hotels, though withdrawing money on foreign debit cards is problematic.
Visa extensions are available in nearly all county capitals, including Kashgar. Getting the first extension can sometimes be problematic, and a second extension is virtually unheard of. Both Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan have consular offices in Urumqi, and are able to provide visas relatively efficiently.
Xinjiang is a paradise for those with a passion for adventure and activities include trekking, climbing, white-water rafting, cycle touring, skiing, paraponting, or camel- trekking. For those less energetic there are possibilities to visit mountain lakes, explore ancient cities in the desert, or try to catch a glimpse of one of more that 50 endangered species indigenous to Xinjiang, including the fabled Snow Leopard and Przewalski Horse.
Xinjiang Regional Museum
Any trip to Xinjiang should include a visit here, the resting place of “Loulan beauty” and several other ancient but very well preserved mummies. Lying buried for nearly 4000 years, their recent discovery continues to cause controversy as to whom the first inhabitants of Xinjiang really were…
Tian Chi (Heaven Lake)
As eulogized in Vikram Seth’s “From Heaven Lake” Tian Chi is for me an object lesson in all that is wrong with modern Chinese tourist development. Having said that, the lake and surrounding scenery itself are stunning, and a stroll into the hills is well rewarded.
Jiao, Xinjiang
The ancient city of Jiaohe was constructed from compressed earth and brick more than 2000 years ago. It remained an important political and trading centre for more than 1000 years. Situated on a plateau at the confluence of two rivers, Jiaohe remains the best preserved ancient earthen city in the world.
Altai Region
Known as “The Jewel in the crown” of Xinjiang, the Altai mountains feature China’s only expanse of Spruce forest, and is studded with pristine alpine lakes. The most famous is known as Kanas, or Hanasi. The region is still home to nomadic Kazaks, who can be seen in the summer pasturing their herds of camels in the lush mountain meadows. A fantastic place for trekking, either by foot or on horseback. Take your camera as the alpine meadows and aquamarine lakes are stunning
The Gobi, and Taklamakan, though both deserts are very different in nature. The Taklamakan is what most people imagine a desert to be. Massive expanses of mountainous dunes stretching as far as the eye can see, the Taklamakan is an inferno in summer. In winter you may be lucky enough to witness snow blanketing the dunes, a uniquely odd experience. Opportunities for camel trekking abound, and it is here that lay many ancient Silk Road cities, and many more still undiscovered.
The Gobi desert by contrast is a land of diversity and life. Home to Kazak camel herders and many rare species of plant and animal life, the Gobi was once a lush primordial forest. One is rewarded by expansive views of both desert and mountain, and near the border with Mongolia lay intricate multicolored canyons and geothermal hot springs.
Xinjiang Food
Famed throughout China for its variety of sweet fruit, Xinjiang is also the place to try local Uyghur specialties such as spiced kebabs, Lahman, and Nan. For those with a more robust palate there is also Kazak cheese, and fermented Mare’s milk…
